There are always many memorable and fashionable moments in New York Fashion Week. Of course. As it should be. And like in a game of pros there’s always spotter watching and reporting back. For the fall 2016 collections, notable debuts, sophomore efforts and follow-ups to breakthrough moments. Our spotter were there. and this is what they found:
New York Fashion Week is back. The twice-a-year circus of runway shows, presentations, performances and parties has 147 designers on the official schedule this time and will take place over nine days. That’s a lot of fashion,but much less than in past seasons. Here NEW YORK TIMES selection of emerging designers, collection debuts and ones to watch in the next week.
The accessories label Brother Vellies opened in 2013 with a commitment to sustainable production in developing African countries, and quickly gained a following. (A Kanye West appearance at the brand’s presentation last season didn’t hurt.) Last year, the founder and creative director Aurora James was one of the 2015 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund Award winners. On Thursday, she will have her first presentation since taking home the $300,000 prize and a yearlong mentorship.
Before starting her fashion line, Ev Bessar founded HeartED, a foundation for children with congenital heart defects. She also studied fashion design at Parsons and worked for brands including Three as Four, Rochambeau and Rubin Singer. For her N.Y.F.W. debut this season, the Russian-born, New York-based designer was inspired by “The Firebird” from Russian folklore. Each piece is handmade by her in the basement of her home in Harlem, which she calls “the dungeon.” The runway show is Thursday at Gotham Hall.
When the Oscar de la Renta alumni Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim started their label in September 2015, it was celebrated for carrying on the sensibility of their former boss, who died in 2014, while adding a more youthful, more accessible edge. The buzz for Monse has only grown since, thanks to support from Amal Clooney and Sarah Jessica Parker. This runway show is Friday at the High Line Hotel.
The former Alexander Wang knitwear designer Amanda Phelan introduced her line last season with a well-received debut presentation. This time around, she will once again put on a performance-based runway show featuring dance at La MaMa, the experimental theater in the East Village, in collaboration with the Vim Vigor Dance Company founder and choreographer, Shannon Gillen, on Saturday.
Last season, the Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond presented a politically charged collection along with a film about police brutality. This season, his collection will be styled by the singer and activist Erykah Badu. Mr. Jean-Raymond got his start when he was 14, working under Kay Unger while attending the High School of Fashion Industries. Now 29, he is going into his fifth season showing at N.Y.F.W. with a runway show Saturday at Milk Studios.